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The old town of Hoi An is full of restaurants with picture menus. Walk a few streets away from the river and the meals get smaller, cheaper and better.
Start at the market
The central market opens early and the food hall at the back serves breakfast to traders. Sit at any counter that is busy and point at what the people next to you are eating.
Dishes to look for
- Cao lau: thick noodles with pork, herbs and crispy croutons, a dish tied to the town.
- Banh mi: the baguettes here are famous, and the queue moves fast.
- White rose dumplings: delicate shrimp dumplings, best eaten fresh.
- Com ga: chicken rice with herbs and a little chilli.
How to order
Many stalls cook one dish only, so the order is how many bowls you want. Bring small notes, eat at lunchtime when everything is fresh and expect plastic stools rather than tables.



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