Three days in Lisbon without a car

Lisbon is a city of hills, and the hills are the reason to leave the car at the airport. Every neighbourhood worth a morning is reachable by tram, metro, train or one of the short ferries that cross the Tagus. This plan assumes a weekday arrival, comfortable shoes and an unhurried pace.

It works for a first visit and for anyone who saw the main sights years ago and wants to slow down. Each day has one anchor in the morning, a loose afternoon and an evening plan close to where you are staying, so you are never more than a short ride from your bed.

Before you go

• Get a Viva Viagem card at the airport metro station. It covers metro, trams, buses, the Cacilhas ferry and the Sintra and Cascais trains.
• Book the Jerónimos Monastery online the day before. The morning slots sell out first.
• Pack shoes with grip. The limestone pavements are smooth and the streets are steep, so they get slippery after rain.

If you plan to visit several museums, compare the Lisboa Card with paying per entry. It includes public transport, so it is worth it on a busy day and wasted on a slow one.

Day 1: Alfama and the river

Morning: Sé Cathedral and the Alfama lanes

Start at the Sé and walk uphill through the lanes to Miradouro de Santa Luzia. The tram 28 queue at Martim Moniz is long by nine; the 12 covers much of the same loop with a fraction of the crowd.

Afternoon: Fado museum and a long lunch

Follow the stairs down to the Fado museum, then eat in one of the small tascas around Largo do Chafariz de Dentro. Ask for the fish of the day.

Evening: ferry to Cacilhas at sunset

Walk to Cais do Sodré and take the ferry across the river. The ride is short and the view back to the city is the best of the trip.

The ferry to Cacilhas costs less than a coffee and gives you the best view of the city.

Demo author 1

Day 2: Belém by bike

The riverside path from Cais do Sodré to Belém is flat and separated from traffic for almost the whole way. Rent a bike near the station and give yourself the full morning: the ride is easy, but you will stop often.

• Jerónimos Monastery: take a morning slot, when the cloister is quiet.
• Tower of Belém: walk around the outside and skip the interior queue if time is short.
• MAAT: the roof is free to walk on and a good shelter if it rains.

Local tip: buy pastéis de nata from the original bakery in Belém, then eat them on the grass by the monastery. The queue for takeaway moves much faster than the one for a table.

Day 3: Sintra by train

Trains to Sintra leave from Rossio station through the day and the ride takes under an hour. Go early: by late morning the palaces fill with day tours.

1. Pena Palace first. Take the hop-on bus from the station to the top and see the palace before the crowds arrive.
2. Walk down through the forest. The path to the Moorish Castle is shaded and well marked.
3. Lunch in the old town. Try travesseiros, the local almond pastry, at a café near the National Palace.
4. Take a late train back. Afternoon trains are quieter than the ones after lunch.

Where to stay

Stay central and the plan works on foot and by tram. These three areas suit different trips.

Alfama

Chiado

Belém

Getting around

Mode	Best for	Tip
Tram 12 and 28	Alfama and Graça hills	Board early. The 12 is the quieter loop.
Metro	Airport, Baixa, Saldanha	The red line runs from the airport into the city.
Ferry	Cacilhas across the Tagus	Short ride with the best view back to the city.
Train	Belém, Cascais, Sintra	Cascais line from Cais do Sodré, Sintra line from Rossio.
Bike	The river path to Belém	Flat and separated from traffic for most of the way.

Questions readers ask

Do I need a car in Lisbon?

No. The centre is compact, parking is hard to find and the trams, metro, ferries and trains reach everything in this plan, including Sintra and Cascais.

How do I get from the airport to the city?

Take the red metro line from the airport and change at Alameda or São Sebastião for the rest of the network. Taxis and ride-hailing pick up outside arrivals.

Is three days enough?

Three days covers the main areas at a relaxed pace. Add a fourth day for Cascais and the coast, or for a slow day in the neighbourhoods you liked most.

Is this plan good with children?

Yes, with a light stroller or a carrier. The hills and cobbles are hard on big strollers, while the river path in Belém is flat and easy.

The short version

Use trams for the hills, the ferry for the view, a bike for Belém and the train for Sintra. Book the monastery a day ahead and go to Sintra early.